When wine tasting in the Umpqua valley stopping in at HillCrest Winery is a must (get it?). The Catz were prowling around for a tasting adventure and by luck or fate decided to stop in for a visit. Oregon’s oldest estate winery, vines were first planted by Oregon wine legend Richard Sommers on the site in 1961. The estate now in the hands of Dyson and Susan Demara and their children Hanna, Parker and Tucker is the epitome of a great family run winery.

When we drove up our first impression was the vines seemed unkempt compared to some other vineyards in the area. We later found that the vineyards are farmed using green/sustainable techniques such as dry farming and permanent cover crops. So a big plus there. Coming up the drive to the winery, the impression was of a well kept and well run operation, very inviting.

A touch of humor greeted us, literally, at the door where a helpful sign assured us it was indeed the door (camouflaged as it was by the surrounding, matching wood, I can imagine more than one taster that was on their second or third winery had a bit of trouble finding it pre-sign.)

The tasting room feels friendly enough to be a family room and you, a new family friend. When we walked in the place was buzzing with happy people (always a good sign). A friendly dog greeted us and then parked himself on the beautiful oriental rug. There were several tables with room for tasting as well as a gorgeous copper topped bar (wish my picture had come out) with a patina that showed a history of fun wine imbibing.

The wines were top notch starting with the 2009 “Cadiz” Tempranillo (lovely fruit, nuanced with smoke, tobacco and a hint of spice) and ending with a late harvest Gewurztraminer (Pure sinful sweet lush fruit and spice). Notable too was the Cab Franc (we got one of the last two bottles) the Rosé (you KNOW how we love a good Rosé – this one made our hit parade) and a Moselle sourced Riesling that had that fabulous intense fruit balanced with plenty of that bright acidity that you expect from the best German Rieslings. One or two of their wines are made using dried grapes resulting in a delightful concentration of flavors and surprisingly, no “raisiny” taste. Tasting was $5, or free with purchase.

We enjoyed a leisurely tasting of the reds, then took a break and had a picnic on their lovely upstairs deck. Gorgeous views, some cheese-fruit-bread and a glass of the Rosé made for a memorable meal alfresco.

Late afternoon saw us trying the whites, buying a few favorite bottles, snapping some photos (Was especially intrigued by the circle of heads) and saying a reluctant farewell. What a delightful place! If you come tasting the Umpqua Valley, put Hillcrest on your “do not miss” list!

Although this was by no means a truly scientific study, the results reveal what we believe is a near universal  truth. The fact that if given a choice, a wine grape having to give up it’s all to make wine would prefer to live out its lives in grape paradise. You know, mild winters with no late frosts, warming springs, early hot summer days with cool nights and lingering autumns. Time to sip water and work on a light suntan.

Furthermore the vast majority of grapes interviewed stated that it was really unnecessary for them to “suffer” to make good wine. A Cabernet Sauvignon grape (who wishes to remain anonymous) stated that what most oenophiles call complexity is really a grape acting out because of a troubled upbringing. A cry for help.  A grape doomed to making “complex” wines may act out by producing a range of symptons that people consider noteworthy and interesting. But often these wines have every attribute but good fruit flavor. White wines that taste like unsweetened lemonade, reds reminiscent of the La Brea tar pits.

While many abused grapes do go on to make spectacular wines, the majority of the sufferers are recognized too late to be helped, even with remedial wine-making techniques, and simply become the hooligans of the bottled set.

In the meantime, those that live their lives out in grapey paradise and manage to produce lively, fruity and drinkable wines feel they are often underappreciated. Even discriminated against. Called names like “quaffable” “easy drinking” and “fruity” (and when allowed too much recreation like drinking and sunbathing, even “flabby”) these grapes are tired of hearing they need to suffer to make it to that grape heaven known as complex wine. Ninety-nine out of one hundred grapes interviewed would “strongly prefer” to live a comfortable and happy life, than hope for immortality in the grape afterlife.

The beautiful grounds at Delfino Winery

We don’t know of too many places more suited for a relaxing afternoon of wine tasting than Delfino Winery.  A warm summer day with blue skies, overlooking a pond and beautiful valley views, surrounded by a vineyard sipping rose, what could be better?

We tasted a several wines, from the fruity and likeable Tempranillo, to the spot on ’08 Syrah. But the stars for us were the rosés.  (Maybe it was the warm weather, or maybe our new-found appreciation of rosés.) The winery crafts two rosés – one from Merlot, and one from Zinfandel – and we loved them both. Fruity and dry – perfect summer sippers.

Delfino also has a cozy guest cottage B&B which looks like a perfect place to hang out while visiting the Roseburg/Umpqua Valley wine tasting area. It advertises a hot tub, lap pool, walking trails, complimentary wine and more. It looks wonderful!

Check them out at delfinowinery.com

I feel like a modern day James Marshall pulling that first nugget out of the river at Sutter’s Mill, in California. Only this is Oregon and what I found was a winery. But one that is worthy of its own “gold rush”. I/we could not have asked for a better time on our visit to their winery and tasting room.

Abacela’s beautiful new facility just opened in May. Designed by the owners’ daughter it is a multi-use building with a huge open beamed vaulted ceiling, and a spacious granite topped bar allowing space for plenty of tasters, (space not needed, as it was delightfully uncrowded) a meeting area, library and more. Outside there is a patio with a wood fired oven where they bake their own home made yummy sourdough bread, several picnic areas and gazebos with tables and chairs, lawns and walking paths, and interesting informational signs. The whole effect, though still a little raw because of its newness, was spacious and beautiful, and promises to grow gracefully into an enchanting place worth a visit for the ambiance alone. The views from here are spectacular.

Oh, did we forget to mention the wine? The wine itself was a revelation.

Our server made us feel right at home (better actually I wish my home looked like this). With 5 flights to choose from, we were glad of a little friendly advice and soon we were tasting. We had three tasters (and one very much appreciated designated driver) and each took a different flight so we could experience as wide a variety as possible. There was a small tasting charge  – between $5 and $15 per flight, reasonable in itself with wine of this quality -  and refunded for a purchase of 3 bottles or more.

And the wines. I am afraid I am going to burst into song like in a bad musical. (Judy here, Craig is far too manly, and would never burst into song, nor get teary eyed about wine.) All I can say is, it has never been my privilege to try this many fabulous red wines at one go. Not a clinker in the bunch. Just one amazing wine after another. From the easy going vintners blend to the better-than-a-sinful-chocolate-dessert port (yes, really), we had smiles on our faces the whole time (along with some groaning and eye rolling which seemed to please our server immensely). Our sincere kudos go to winemaker Andrew Wenzl for his deft touch.

Abacela’s owners chose this site believing that it was a perfect place to grow Iberian varieties. And, though I am no expert on the “classic varietal expression” for these varieties, I do know that Abacela was the first American winery to have its Tempranillo judged superior to those from Spain (2001 SF International Wine Competition).

Among all these lovely wines, it is hard to pick favorites, some were more along the lines of “food” wines” and so difficult to really tell how much more they would shine matched with the right food. One that is still haunting me is the Dolcetto. What did we “have to” buy and take home? A gorgeous 2008 Malbec, the 2007 Estate Tempranillo – Intense, complex and joyful – and the silken rich Port. (Reviews to come when we open them.)

We didn’t get to try them all, so fair warning Abacela, the Catz will be back.

Discover gold for yourself.
Abacela Winery
12500 Lookinglass Road
Roseburg, OR